Now, Chinese restaurants have never been known for the flavor and lightness of their cuisine (at least not the Szechuan and Mandarin varieties that predominate in expatriate outposts across the world). And maybe we've grown complacent to presume the perennial presence of at least a short line-up of dependable can't-go-wrong dishes, say chicken with snow peas, moo shu pork, beef with broccoli. But who would have thought, in a relatively well heeled neighborhood in the travel world's new darling one could eat so badly while being treated to such elegant surroundings (spacious dining room with linen table clothes and etched glass dividers between tables; ours featured a spry carp) and top notch service (hot towels offered both before and after the meal and the postprandial ritual of a complimentary chupito).The culprit, but I good reason to believe that this one is not exceptional? CHIN JUA, c/ Joan Güell 212. In fact, there is at least one more: CHIN JUA, c/ Canalejas 82.
(Of course, for those who have followed by culinary explorations with the Great Enchantress over the years will remember that this—the triumph of form over function—has always been one of my chief disappointments with at least upper end Catalán cooking. Could it be that these enterprising immigrants are just giving Barcelona what feels familiar?)
There may be a silver lining to this cloud, alas. Throughout last night's dypepsia, which continues to this day, I've had the opportunity to ponder the continued existence of such inadequate Chinese restaurants in the city and I dare say I have figured out the key:
1) The fact that nearly every other dining out option is closed not just on Sundays but also on Mondays guarantees the still limited in number Chinese venues a dependable if desperate stream of business.
2) The predomination of diners with no culinary tradition (or where one exists/existed, a wretched one). And here I am thinking of England much more than the US or Germany, although it must be noted that the vast majority of diners at this unforgettable dining establishment last night were, in fact, Barcelonéses!
Maybe the recent of flood of Japanese eats in the city (I swear there are now more sushi places than bank branches) will inspire to the Mandarins to clean up their act. But I suspect we are talking different price points, as it were, here and that the culinary crimes will continue. But at least the crime has been solved.
